Beijing: The Center of Asia

China was known as the "Middle Kingdom," and if you visit Beijing, you'll easily see why. Much of the city is scarred by hideous apartment buildings, but the old, grand buildings, especially the Forbidden City, will simply put you in awe. Several of the emperors' playgrounds, that is, parks and palaces, are still standing, though you may feel as if you're in Disneyland on acid because the Chinese will ruin a park by putting a screaming dinosaur exhibit on these sacred, sacrosanct grounds. Travel is difficult if you're alone and not in a tour group, but with patience and persistence, it's possible.

You must visit The Great Wall of China while you're in Beijing. It's a day-long trip and definitely worth it.

WHAT TO SEE: The Forbidden City, of course. It's incredible. Tourists are herded through like cattle, so don't just walk in the middle from courtyard to courtyard: go off to the side, take notes in your journal, and you'll be amazed how quiet it is, even though there are thousands of people on the grounds with you. The Summer Palaces beg for a visit: the New for its splendid grounds, the Old for its majestic ruins. If you enjoy visiting temples, the Lama Temple, the largest Tibetan Buddhist temple in China, is a must. Nearby is the Confucius Temple and Imperial College. Tiantan Park, or the Temple of Heaven, has become the symbol of Beijing. This was once hallowed ground for the emperor, and architects will marvel at the complex layout of circles, squares, and lines. Wander around Tiananmen Square, during the day, and at night.

WHAT TO DO: Explore the various parks that used to be playgrounds for the emperors, such as Jingshan Park and Beihai Park, north of the Forbidden City. Beihai Park has great landscaping, though it's marred by a KFC and occasional exhibits that show the modern Chinese penchant for tacky decoration.

You have to go to the subway and/or a bus stop and watch the Chinese try to board on and off! It is absolutely hysterical! Everyone is pushing each other, trying to get on or off, and no one seems to get anywhere! It is good free amusement! Go to the McDonald's by the Jinghua Hotel early in the morning, and watch the ballroom dancing and traditional fan dances. Go to a department store right when it opens, and watch the celebratory parade that marks another days' opening. One such event I watched was a real treat: they brought in some of the clerks on motorcycles!

If you've ever wanted to take the slow boat to China just to say that you've done it, then take an overnight ferry from Korea. You'll get off the ship at Tianjin, a port about an hour's drive from Beijing. As soon as you go through customs, you'll be greeted by gangs of bus drivers demanding that you go in their vehicle. Do yourself a favor and befriend some Koreans during your overnight boat ride, and you'll be taken care of.

WHAT NOT TO DO: Don't ever show anger, or you'll never get anywhere. Remember this at customs or when dealing with someone on the hotel staff.

WHERE TO EAT: Street food in China is good! You can find all sorts of goodies from buffalo yogurt to stir-fries whipped up in a street stall. Breakfast is usually dumplings and a fried bread stick. If you eat on the street, you'll spend next to nothing. Western food is readily available, but eating breakfast on the street with the locals at 7 in the morning is part of visiting China. You have to try Peking Duck: it'll make you sick but it makes for a decadent meal. A couple great duck restaurants are the Qianmen (511-2418) and the Bianyifang (702-0505). Be sure to eat in the cheap section with the locals: eating in the nice dining room will cost you more! It's an experience not to be missed! If you can find Muslim barbecue, try that also, though I understand the Muslim section of town has been razed (in retaliation for trouble in Western China?).

If you want to experience modern China, go to a McDonald's or any fast food restaurant. Watch old men from the country eat a hamburger with an expression on their face saying, "What's so great about this?" Look out for the "little emperors," spoiled, cantankerous, and sadly, obese young boys who are, of course, the only child. Watch the parents and grandparents literally fatten the kid like a duck getting ready for slaughter. It's a disturbing sight, chilling when you think about how these boys will be when they're men (and unable to find a wife because of the warped boys-to-girls birth rate!).

WHERE TO STAY: Lodging is difficult if you're on a budget and can't afford the more expensive hotels. The best place to stay if you're on a budget is the Jinghua Hotel (722-2211). The staff is surly and difficult, and when I first tried to check in at 2:00 in the morning, the witch at the front desk said there was no room. I persisted and an hour later, after a local woman insisted that I stay there, I got a bed in their dorm, which will cost you a few buck a night. It's very basic, and to get to the restrooms and showers, you go through a maze that would confuse a Chinese rocket scientist. Nevertheless, it's part of being in China, and you'll meet a lot of travelers.