WHAT TO SEE:
Start out in central Bratislava. If you can get in, visit the Primate's Palace, where Napolean and the Austrian emperor Franz I signed a peace treaty. You'll find such museums such as the Museum of Wine Production and the Museum of Folk Music. Of course you have your old grand churches like the Church of the Clarissine Order and the Franciscan Church, all architectural wonders. Dating from the Roman era, Bratislava Castle offers a great view of the city, though the current building, constructed in the 1950s, is disappointing.
WHAT TO DO: The Slovak National Theater presents wonderful opera and ballet if you're interested. From the hydrofoil terminal, you can take a boat on the Danube River to Vienna. Nearby the city are the Carpathian Mountains, which offer decent hiking.
WHAT NOT TO DO: Don't try to ride the trolleys without purchasing a ticket. We almost didn't, and glad we did because cops do come on board to check. Even if the fine isn't as steep as in some cities like Budapest, why put yourself through such a hassle? Be sure you have plenty of coins to buy tickets from the kiosks.
WHERE TO EAT: The "Food Market," located on Hviezdoslavov Nám and Rybárska Brána, is a Slovak version of a food court. A great place for dinner is Vindáren Velky Frantiskáni, Frantiskénske Ném, in the cellar of an old monastery, which dates back to the 13th century. Try the halusky, little dumplings topped with cheese and bacon. Seating is limited, but the food is good and reasonable. Cafés are everywhere, serving up good strong espresso and tasty desserts. For excellent ice cream, drop by Atlantis, Stúrova 13 . . . the lines are long but the wait is worth it!
WHERE TO STAY:
Private rooms are your best bet if you want to stay in the center. Satur (21 22 05), on Jesenského 5-9, can arrange such accomodation, or find you a hotel room if that's what you prefer. If you wish to hostel it, try the Hotel Junior, which gives discounts for YHA card holders, in the eastern part of the city on Drienová 14.