Sabah Brunei BORNEO AND BRUNEI

Brunei: Muslim Disneyland

Omar Ali Saifuddin Mosque, Brunei If you are on Borneo, you've got to come here for at least the day. This small oil kingdom has gargantuan, sparkling buildings that are rarely used. The people are friendly and you don't feel the social constraints that you would in the Middle East.

WHAT TO SEE: All the ostentatious buildings, such as the Omar Ali Saifuddin Mosque, the Lapau, the Royal Ceremonial Hall, and the new mosque that is near the airport.

WHAT TO DO: Look into renting a car if you want to get around easily, if you can afford it. Bus service is irregular, and the sights are very spread out. Taxis are few and far between. Take a river cruise and view the Kampung Ayer villages: the water is filthy, but it's fascinating to see all these neighborhoods balancing on stilts.

WHAT NOT TO DO: The locals are kind and accepting, but don't bring any unwanted attention to yourself. You should always respect the local culture anyway, and that especially applies here. However, Bruneians are tolerant of other cultures, so don't feel as if you must watch your every move.

WHERE TO EAT: The new shopping center by the Omar Ali Saifuddin Mosque has a great food court serving all kinds of local goodies. The main drag, Jalan Sultan, has a lot of cheap eateries as well.

WHERE TO STAY: Good luck. Unless you know someone who lives there, or can afford the 5-star hotels, your options are limited. You can try the Pusat Belia, (02-229423) the one "hostel," on Jalan Sungai Kianggeh.


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