Welcome to one of the most fascinating cities in Eastern Europe, where the West truly meets the East. There's a lot to do here, and Budapest is a fun city to visit for several days. If I had a choice of cities in this region in which to live, I'd choose Budapest: it's a very livable and exciting city.
WHAT TO DO:
The city is divided into 22 kerület, or districts, which was a cruel trick to people like the Kaye brothers who lack a sense of direction. Just take the metro somewhere in Central Pest and wander around the streets. Váci Utca is a fantastic pedestrian mall that allows for great people watching. Stroll around Parliament, a building so scary looking that it'll give you nightmares. As dusk sets in, walk along Belgráde Rakpart and Széchenyi Rakpart, which line the Danube. Just soak in the atmosphere! We didn't go to any of the thermal baths, but they're famous here: try them out!
WHAT NOT TO DO:
Don't even try to ride the city's reliable metro without buying a ticket, which are sold at kiosks throughout Budapest. The fines are steep and you don't need the hassle. Pleading ignorance will get you no where. Besides, as a Westerner, you can afford it!
WHERE TO EAT:
Leave room for dessert! Budapest is blessed with wonderful Vienna-style cafés where you can sip fantastic espresso and scrumptious desserts. Müvész Café, IV Andrássy Út 29, is open 24 hours and is simply fabulous. Sit in here and pray that Starbuck's goes bankrupt if they dare try to open shops in Europe. For self catering, supermarkets are everywhere; or go to the Nagycsarnok, or Central Market Hall, on Fovám Ter. Now, to have Hari Krisha food in Budapest may sound insanely absurd, but Govinda on V Belgrád Rakpart 18 serves an awesome 4-course Indian meal. Fatál Restaurant on V Váci Utca 67 whips up excellent Magyar fare.
WHERE TO STAY:
Homestay! You can stay in a decent room for about US$20-25 a night if you book through a local travel agency. Try an Ibusz office: V Apáczai Csere Janos, near the Duna Marriott Hotel, is open 24 hours. If you arrive at the Keleti train station, the Ibusz office there is also of service. Ibusz is all over the city: their main number is 1-118-1120. If you wish to hostel it, students wearing HI t-shirts will approach you at the train stations if you don't look like the 5-star hotel set. Be patient and look around because there is a lot of cheap accommodation here.
WHAT TO SEE:
Start off at Castle Hill, on the west side of the Danube River. Walk through Vienna Gate and crisscross through the streets and alleys. The Royal Palace, first built in the 1400s, is impressive, and houses the National Gallery. Even if you're not interested in Hungarian art (and you'll see everything Hungarian that was painted this millenium), you'll get a kick out of the crabby old ladies wearing housecoats who staff the galleries. The Citadella, or fortress, makes for an interesting stroll, and the Independence Monument is striking when lit at night. The Jewish Quarter is of interest; the Great Synagogue at VII Dohány Utca 2-8 houses the Jewish Museum. Walk around the surrounding neighborhood. Northeast of the city center is the City Park area, graced with the grand Opera House, Museum of Fine Arts, St. Stephen's Basilica, and Vajdahunjad Castle. There is also a decrepit zoo here.