This small South Bohemia town, only 20 kilometers from the Austrian border, is like walking through a fairy tale. Its buildings haven't changed much since the 1700s, and you'll want to stay here a couple days and remain stuck in time. More travelers are discovering this quaint hamlet on the Vlatava River, and some would complain Cesky Krumlov is becoming too touristy, but it's still worthwhile visiting here.
WHAT TO DO:
Definitely walk around old town and soak in Cesky Krumlov's timeless charm. The hills surrounding the town make for an excellent hike. We found an abandoned monastery that gave a stunning view of Cesky Krumlov.
WHAT NOT TO DO:
Do not stay at the Traveler's Hostel, which at night becomes a pub blasting heavy metal music. There are a couple restaurants along the river that also blast Eurotrash music after sundown, so be aware of this abomination if you wish to sleep at night. Czechs are soaking up American culture faster than the Soviet troops barged in during 1968. Imagine Williamsburg, Virginia, hosting an ACDC concert, and you'll see what I mean if you suffer through a sleepless night here. Cesky Krumlov, unfortunately, shows the perverse side of "globalization."
WHERE TO EAT:
You'll find decent supermarkets on the outskirts of old town if you're into self catering. Chow down at a wine cellar. Vinárra U Satlavy is an old jail and the ryby, or fish, was excellent. Be sure to try the local beer. There's a self service restaurant, or samoobsluha, at the main square. Obey the rules: keep your ticket, and then after you eat, hold on to that ticket for dear life because after eating, you pay as you exit. If you lose your ticket, you'll have to pay the exorbitant maximum amount.
WHERE TO STAY:
Hostels pop up in different places every summer. Try the Hotel Ryba (phone: 5453) on Rybárská 5. If they're booked, the friendly staff will recommend another place. The rule of thumb is: check out the room first! You're better off in a room of a converted house. If you stay in a large room or dorm, there's a high possibility that a numskull will jolt you out of bed by barging in and turning off the lights at 3:00 a.m.!
WHAT TO SEE:
The castle and its colorful round tower scream "take a picture" at you! Explore the grounds and the buildings' colorful façades. Notice the differences between the older lower section of the Italian-ized upper section, where you can stroll through the palace halls. Nearby is Budejovická Gate, where you can exit and hike around the countryside or head toward old town.