Eger

Eger is a cute baroque town that has a romantic taste to it. In 1552, the Hungarians slowed down the marauding Turkish army here, and for a while, kept Hungary independent. Intriguing ruins and gorgeous buildings draw visitors to Eger.

WHAT TO SEE: Start at Eger Castle, which offers a nice view of the town and is of interest if you're into ruins and destruction. Walk down the hill and climb the 100 plus steps in the minaret if you're not claustrophobic. Minorite Church, located on Dobó István Tér, is one of the most splendid buildings in Hungary. The grounds around Eger Cathedral, itself a find, make for a nice stroll.

WHAT TO DO: Stroll around the old town, especially along Széchenyi Isván Utca, a pleasant pedestrian mall. Érsek Kert, once a private garden for royalty, is a great place for a picnic, and has an enormous public swimming pool and thermal baths.

WHAT NOT TO DO: Don't wait until it's too late in the evening to eat: there are few decent restaurants, and they often close early.

WHERE TO EAT: There are a couple csárdas, or wine cellars in the Szépasszovy-vögy district. Gyros, on Széchenyi Isván Utca 10, has good Greek food. Along this street there are some good ice cream shops as well.

WHERE TO STAY: Eger Tourist, Bajcsy-Zsilinszky Utca 9, can help you find private rooms, or if you prefer a hostel, drop by Express at Széchenyi Isván Utca 28.