Estonia

Of the three Baltic states, tiny Estonia, a little larger than Denmark, is probably in the best shape, thanks to all the investment by their Finnish cousins. If you're traveling between St. Petersburg and Finland, take an overnight train from St. Pete's to Tallinn. You can spend the day in Tallin, and then a hydrofoil to Helsinki.

My brother, who lived in St. Petersburg for 2 1/2 years, often escaped to Tallinn for visa runs or simply to get away. He recommends a FARMSTAY! For information, call the Estonian Farmers Union at 2-683-410, fax 2-6311-045, which runs a network of B&B inns in rural Estonia.

WHAT TO SEE: Simply wander around Tallinn for a few hours. It's a wonderful town, and you'll expect to see Sleeping Beauty or Cinderella appear at any moment. It's a magical setting. Start in the Lower Town. Raekoja Plats, or Town Hall Square, is a nice place to relax and have a beer. The town hall, Vana Toomas, has survived since 1530. Toompea, the hill that Tallinn surrounds, is worth exploring: walk through the Pikk Jalg Gate Tower that dates from 1380. The northern part of Lower Town is graced by Pikk Street, where medieval German houses were built in the 15th century. If you love animals, I've heard the Tallinn Zoo is worth a visit, and the Estonians are trying to improve the animals' living conditions.

WHAT TO DO: At the edge of the old town are several stalls where women sell hand knitted sweaters. You'll have a hard time bargaining with them, but you can get beautiful, hand-knitted sweaters anywhere from $US40-60. These sweaters would cost a few hundred dollars in Scandinavia or the States.

WHAT NOT TO DO: We found Estonia to be a friendly place. General precautions that you would take in Eastern Europe apply.

WHERE TO EAT: Estonian fare is meat-and-potatoes for the most part. Try their sausages and smoked fish, and follow them with some syrupy Vana Tallinn, which will get you looped if you have too much. Restaurants abound in the city center.

WHERE TO STAY: There are cheap guesthouses, but for the most part I haven't heard of any that were raved about. As is the case anywhere in Eastern Europe, try to stay in someone's house. Try the Family Hotel Service in Tallinn (2-441-187).