Fukuoka

If you end up in this part of the world, Fukuoka, or Hakata (the two towns merged in 1889) is not a bad place to spend a few days. Don't be confused: the airport is Fukuoka, but the train station is called Hakata, and many locals prefer the latter name. If you're in Korea, it's an easy three hour hydrofoil ride from Pusan. Once you get off the boat, you'll be amazed at how clean and organized Fukuoka is. There isn't much historically or culturally significant in Fukuoka, but there is some nice countryside to explore outside the city. The people of Kyushu, the island on which Fukuoka is located, have a reputation to be friendly and party hard.

WHAT TO SEE: There are a few shrines near the JR Hakata station, such as the Shofuki-ji Temple and the Sumiyoshi-jinja Shrine. Maizuru Park, once Fukuoka-jo Castle, gives a nice view of the city and is a tranquil place to walk around. If you've got time, the local baseball team plays in a modern domed stadium. You can also take a ferry to Marine World Umi-no-Nakamichi, a seaside amusement park.

WHAT TO DO: Nakasu Island, in the center of Fukuoka, is a fascinating place for people-watching at night. It's a huge entertainment area filled with sleazy strip bars and drinking holes. My friend and I laughed our heads off observing this district in action!

WHAT NOT TO DO: Be very careful if you're brave enough to enter one of the strip joints or bars in Nakasu. Your tab may require an IMF bailout!

WHERE AND WHAT TO EAT: You can find tasty, reasonable food in the basements of any of the department stores. At the train station, search around the lower levels: you'll find countless restaurants offering good food at decent prices. There's a Mister Donut, that, hold your breath, gives free coffee refills!

WHERE TO STAY: There is a great hostel that I highly recommend in Dazaifu (092-922-8740), a short train ride outside of Fukuoka. Once you get to the Dazaifu station, it's easy to follow the signs. To get there, a Nishitetsu line train will take you in that direction from Tenjin station in Fukuoka. From Futsukaichi, transfer to get to the Nishitetsu-Dazaifu Station. The trip should take about half an hour. There are several shrines and temples worth exploring, and the countryside around this sleepy town makes for great hiking. I'd go there again in a second. In the city, if you want to try a capsule hotel (remember, men only and no tattoos!), try the Sauna Wellbe (092-291-1009) or the Capsule Inn Hakata (092-281-2244). Business hotels are plentiful, and may not be such a bad deal with the weak yen: try the information counter at the JR Hakata Station.