When I visited Hanoi in December 1995, it was a sleepy, dusty capital with a provincial feel to it. The government buildings from the colonial era, with their peeling yellow paint, gave Hanoi a rustic charm. Back then huge construction projects were just underway, so Hanoi probably has changed a lot. It's a nice town to wander around for a few days, if you don't mind packs of kids following you, trying to sell you everything under the Vietnamese sun.
WHAT TO DO:
One of my fondest memories is being in Hanoi for Christmas Eve and watching children decorate St. Joseph's Cathedral, which looks as if it were beamed from Europe. Wander around here and get a feel for the past. Spending your evening in a cafe is a great way to get to know the locals and other travelers. Markets north of Hoan Kiem Lake are fun to walk through, even if the wares don't appeal to you. Water puppet shows are a Vietnamese tradition, and Hanoi is a great place to see one. Check out the National Water Puppet Theatre and the Hanoi City Water Puppet Theatre. It's easy to get around Hanoi, either by renting a cylco, or riding on the back of someone's motorbike. Ask other travelers to see what a fair price would be!
WHAT NOT TO DO:
Don't get into a cyclo unless you've agreed on a price if you want to avoid a nasty incident! You can get a good massage for cheap here, but make sure you're getting a massage and not something you didn't want, like a trip to the local VD clinic once you return home!
WHERE TO EAT:
Guidebooks complain that the food in Hanoi is lousy, but I found plenty of good places. If you want to eat at a place where the menu is as long as an Oliver Stone movie script, go to Restaurant 22 (Quang An Restaurant), 22 Hang Can St., where you can choose a dish including your favorite critter in the animal kingdom. A great place is Cha Ca Restaurant, 14 Cha Ca St., where there's only one thing on the menu: a fried fish dish loaded with all kinds of greens! There are several French restaurants where you can get a wonderful mean for a great price; ask around. If you're on the cheap, there are always pho stalls overrunning the sidewalks. French bread is cheap and tasty if you're up early enough in the morning, and good cafés are all over the city.
WHERE TO STAY:
You don't have as many cheap options as you would in other cities in Vietnam. When you get off the taxi and are plonked on Hanoi's streets, you'll be greeted by a pack of touts . . . be careful and don't commit yourself to a room till you've seen it. A lot of hotels may have rooms in the $100 dollar range, but have rooms in the back that aren't refurbished and will go for about US$20 or so. The Hoa Binh Hotel (253315), 27 Ly Thuong Kiet Street, is one such place you may want to check out. Its dining room is open late and serves good Vietnamese and western grub. I understand the Phung Hung Hotel (265555), 2 Duong Thanh Street, is also a decent place to stay if you're traveling on the cheap. Finding a room may take a while, so be patient and don't arrive when I did: at night! My first night was spent in a dive, with rules such as "Please leave your guns and ammunition at the front desk," and "No salt, sauces, or spices may be kept in the room."
Hanoi is also a city of lakes. Hoan Kiem Lake is a nice place for a picnic in the center of Hanoi. West Lake (Ho Tay) is also a pleasant place for a stroll. There are several temples to see as well, including the Temple of Literature, and the One Pillar Pagoda. Ngoc Son Temple is on the northern side of Hoan Kiem Lake, and is a serene place to escape from the vendors and cyclo drivers.