Hoi An

This little trading village, once known as Faifo, gathering point for many trading powers throughout the centuries, is a relaxing place to stay for a few days. The first Chinese settlement started here, and the Japanese and European trading powers had a presence as well. Hoi An survived the ravages of the Vietnamese wars, so houses that are centuries old still exist. The architecture is quite unique, and you can spend hours strolling, admiring the details put into all the houses and temples.

WHAT TO SEE: There are lovely buildings all over this town, including the various Chinese assembly halls. There are a few beautiful pagodas as well, including the Caodai Pagoda, Phuoc Lam Pagoda, and the Chuc Thanh Pagoda.

WHAT TO DO: Rent a bike for the day and go to Cua Dai Beach, about 5 km. east of Hoi An. The bike rental will set you back about 50 cents or a dollar. People will smile at you, and several adorable children would ask me, "What's your name, where are you from?" as I pedaled by.

WHAT NOT TO DO: I've heard and read that the local police are to be avoided. There are vendors everywhere, cute kids who want to sell you post cards and other trinkets. Be nice, and stay alert.

WHERE AND WHAT TO EAT: Oh, one of the tastiest dishes I had in Vietnam was cao lau, a scrumptious mix of noodles, croutons, bean sprouts, greens, and slices of pork. Fresh coconuts are everywhere. There are several good restaurants; ask around.

WHERE TO STAY: There are several guesthouses and hotels where foreigners can stay now, but I was happy with the Hoi An Hotel, which had airy rooms at a reasonable rate. I traveled to Hoi An with a nice woman from New York who had already had a reservation there, and my room was cheaper and nicer than hers!