Hong Kong

I'm glad I saw Hong Kong before the handover, though from what I understand, political problems aside, it hasn't changed all that much. I spent a week in Hong Kong, and wish I had stayed longer. On one hand, it's very modern, yet you can easily find an old tea house or dim sum shop where you can relax, read the morning paper, and get a good start to your day. It's a crowded, congested, and dynamic place, but you can easily hop on a bus and in a few minutes, you'll be in the countryside. The shopping in Hong Kong is excellent, and there is plenty of good food to eat. Transportation is easy, too, with the tram, subway, buses, minibuses, and maxicabs.

WHAT TO SEE: The various outdoor and indoor markets. Victoria Peak does have a great view of Hong Kong, and it's worth going during the day and again at night. You can take public transport: don't bother with the overpriced tour buses. The various islands around Hong Kong, such as Cheung Chau, Lamma, and Lantau, are great places to spend part of your day, but you may be disappointed because a nice beach could be spoiled by litter. The villages in the New Territories, including Kat Hing Wai, where you can see the Hakka women in their traditional garb, and Kam Tin, are interesting: you'll feel as if you're in the "real" China.

WHAT TO DO: You won't get tired of taking the Star Ferry that links Kowloon to Hong Kong island. It's a little more than a HK dollar and you get a great view of Hong Kong. Take it at night as well. Go for a walk down Nathan Road along the "Golden Mile." The Museum of History is worth a visit. Check out the Bird Market in the Mongkok district! To witness the innovation that marks Hong Kong, take the Hillside Escalator Link, an 800 meter moving walkway on Hong Kong island. If you feel like going to the beach, take a bus to Repulse Bay, and then see the junks at Aberdeen.

WHAT NOT TO DO: Be careful when buying jewelry or electronics! Be sure you really know what you're doing, especially in Tsimtsatshui. Shopping in Kowloon is not the greatest place for bargains. You're better off going to one of the malls away from the city center; you can often find good deals there on everything from luggage to alarm clocks.

WHERE TO EAT: Everywhere. You have your choices. If you've been craving ethnic fare, you'll find it all from Greek to Adobo. The street food is good, and there are plenty of grocery stores where you can buy those goodies you've missed.

WHERE TO STAY: I stayed at the Mt. Davis Hostel, or Ma Wui Hall (2817-5715) on Hong Kong Island, and I'm glad I did. There's a curfew (11:00 p.m.), and the dorms are very basic, but the staff is friendly and you'll meet a lot of neat people from all over the world. Plus, the hostel has a view of Hong Kong harbor that is just as stunning, or even more so, than at Victoria Peak. If you're not into clubbing, you may as well stay here. You'll have to do a chore such as sweeping a floor or taking out the garbage, but it's very cheap. Many people I know have stayed at the Chungking Mansions in Kowloon: stories of cockroaches on steroids and nasty innkeepers abound. If you want to brave it there, you're on your own! There are many guesthouses if you want to stay in a decent place but can't afford the Victoria Peak-high hotel rates.