Hue, the old capital of Vietnam, was practially destroyed during the Tet Offensive of 1968. The Citadel and the old palace, the Forbidden Purple City, were destroyed during the battle, and now there are only ruins around which one can wander today. Tragic as Hue's fate was, it's still a pleasant place to spend a couple days, and you can still get a sense of how grand this city once was.
WHAT TO DO:
WHAT NOT TO DO:
Don't crab about the cost of entering the tombs to the locals. Yes, by Vietnamese standards, they are highway robbery to enter, but remember that the average wage in Vietnam is about a dollar a day! You won't get their sympathy. Keep in mind that you won't be in this part of the world that often.
WHERE AND WHAT TO EAT:
The local cuisine in Hue is tasty, and you'll find restaurants in other Vietnamese cities that specialize in Hue cuisine. Banh khoai are tasty crêpes filled with bean sprouts, pork, and shrimp. Banh nam are like Vietnamese turnovers, made of rice flour, meat, and shrimp, fried in a banana leaf. On Dinh Tien Hoang Street are several restaurants, including the Lac Thanh Restaurant, which the Lonely Planet says, "The food is awesome." The owner, Lac, is mute, so all orders are done in sign language unless his daughter is there. He's a super nice guy, and yes, the book and the banner at the restaurant don't lie! Che, tasty fruit soups, make for a nice dessert.
WHERE TO STAY:
Guesthouses are scattered throughout the city. I stayed at the Ngo Quyen Hotel off of Ha Noi Street and had a great time. The staff invited me to their Christmas Eve party, where as the only foreigner, I spent the evening singing karaoke, eating cold cuts, and downing whiskey. It was one of the best holidays I had ever had, my hangover the next day notwithstanding.
Hire a driver for the day so you can get around. You can easily arrange that wherever you're staying, or ask the cab driver who picks you up at the airport if you fly in.