Kecskemét

Smack in the middle of Hungary, Kecskemét (pronounced "KETCH-ke-met") is an appealing town. Its streets are lined with huge trees, and the cultural scene is impressive for a town of its size. Located in the middle of Nagyalföld, or Hungary's Great Plain, it is also referred to as Hungary's "Garden City," as orchards and vineyards surround the town.

WHAT TO SEE: The central square, Szabadság Tér, is rimmed with enchanting historical buildings. The Art Nouveau Town Hall gives a fine view of Kecskemét, and between it are the Great Church and the Church of St. Nicholas. The Museum of Naïve Artists deserves a visit if you're interested in local art.

WHAT TO DO: There is a lot of classical entertainment here. Check out the Ference Erdei Cultural Center and the Jósef Katona Theater. Their schedules offer opera, operettas, concerts, and plays. Kecskemét's symphony is well respected throughout Hungary. If these possibilities bore you, then make sure you have a deck of cards because there isn't much else to do.

WHAT NOT TO DO: Like many Eastern European towns, Kecskemét comes to a standstill on Sundays. Don't run out of bottled water . . . this is an agricultural area, so it's HOT during the summer months.

WHERE TO EAT: Your options are limited. We had a hard time finding restaurants here, or at least, places that were open. Görög Udvar on Koháry Istvó has good Greek grub. For a Hungarian meal, try out Jalta and its apathetic staff on Batthyány Utca 2. In the middle of Szabadság Tér is Fodor, a nice place for coffee and dessert.

WHERE TO STAY: There are pensions all over town: look for Zimmer Frei signs. During the summer you can try the Teachers' College (321-977), Piaristák Tere 4, for a room.