Krakow

Krakow is one of my favorite cities in Europe. It's not crowded and over touristed, and it's a lovely, charming city. We felt very relaxed during our stay, and wished we could have stayed longer. Luckily for the city, it was saved from destruction during WWII when the Soviets quickly surrounded Krakow in January 1945, forcing the Nazis to evacuate it rapidly.

WHAT TO SEE: Old Town, of course. There is so much to see in a small, compact area. The Main Market Square is centered around the Cloth Hall, or Sukiennice, in which there's a huge (and a bit junky) craft market. Nearby is St. Mary's Church, where a trumpet call serenades Krakow every hour, recalling a thirteenth century trumpeter, who, while warning the town of invasion, was felled by a Tatar's arrow. Explore Kazimierz, the old Jewish quarter; there isn't much left and it's eerily depressing.

WHAT TO DO: One of my best memories is passing the time with Kevin, my brother, at Rynek Glowny, or Main Market Square. We sipped strong coffee in the a.m., beer in the p.m., played our card game, "Spite and Malice," and wrote post cards to our beloved working stiffs at home. This square is overwhelmingly beautiful: you won't want to leave.

One of the most moving scenes in Europe is Oswiecim, or Auschwitz. This is a day trip from Krakow; you can find buses near the train station. Kevin and I barely spoke to each other that day. It is an emotionally wrenching site, so do not go if you feel you cannot handle it. I've gotten into arguments over the virtues of going or not, but having relatives who died in a genocide, I'm glad we went.

WHAT NOT TO DO: Do not bother going to the Salt Mines, no matter what people tell you! We could not believe this tourist trap was on the UNESCO list! You will suffer through a painful tour during which someone will give rambling banter about the mine. Of course, if you want to be able to mail a post card of the Pope from the "deepest post office" on Earth, then go on ahead.

WHERE TO EAT: We were not impressed by Polish fare, but Krakow has plenty of alternatives. There is a yummy Greek restaurant, Akropolis Grill, on Grodska 9. If you wish to brave the Polish version of Mexican food, dine at the eatery with that original name, Taco Mexicano, on ul Poselska 20. One must have coffee where the shop's name means, "Coffee Shop Farewell to Africa," Sklep z Kawa Pozegnanie z Afryka, on ul Sw Tomasza 21. After being in Scandinavia and Russia, we found Polish ice cream to be disappointing. We couldn't figure out why everyone was eating empty ice cream cones until we realized that the scoops are so small they plop to the bottom!

WHERE TO STAY: We stayed at the Hotel Polonia (22 12 33), near the train station, which was comfy enough for us. That may be a bit pricey if you're on a budget, so try a hostel, such as the Dom Studencki(33 54 77), on Al 3 Maja 5. If you're interested in staying in a private room, which I recommend, go to Biuro Turystyki i Zakwaterowania Waweltur (22 19 21, 22 16 40), on ul Pawia 8.