Among the Baltic states, Latvia has the most problems. Russians are a huge minority, and in fact, there are more Russians in Riga than Latvians. Russians have an impossible time getting decent jobs, or for that matter, citizenship in Latvia, so much so that at one point point Boris Yeltsin called for a boycott of Latvian products. Latvia's main export to Russia, however, is canned fish, and Russians generally ignored another one of Yeltin's vodka-induced temper tantrums.
Riga, often called "Little Paris" or "Paris of the East," was the eyes and ears monitoring the USSR before WWII. It's a grand city, well deserving of a visit. Take your time and walk around the city; be sure to look up so that you'll see the curious carvings and ornaments that adorn the buildings.
I wish I had seen more of this country. I understand that Vidzeme, Latgale, Kurzeme, and Zemgale are all wonderful regions, so do some research if you want to see the countryside.
A definite highlight is the Central Market. This has to be one of the most fabulous open markets anywhere. Why? Imagine five aircraft hangers: one devoted to cheese, another to fruits and vegetables, another to bread and pastries. Unless you have a strong stomach, skip the fresh meat hangar. You will be in gastronomic nirvana! My brother and I were so happy here despite the fact that we could not make up our minds what to eat! Every town, I believe, should have its personal hangar-sized cheese market. One curious point is that as you enter a market, you'll see old women standing outside, trying to sell a couple loaves of bread or a bunch of greens. Apparently these women will buy day-old bread and try to make a quick few cents. Seeing such economic hardship will make you realize how lucky some of us are.
WHAT TO DO:
Take a walking tour! Start out at the Old Town, at Doma Laukums, where the Rigas Doms, or Dome Cathedral, will tower over you. Drop by Riga Castle, dating from the 14th century, which now houses Latvia's president. The northern part of the old city has other churches and houses that are stunningly beautiful.
WHAT NOT TO DO:
Bringing up Russians as a topic of discussion is probably not a good idea if you meet any Latvians.
WHERE TO EAT:
Food in Latvia is probably the best in the Baltics. There is no shortage of restaurants and sweet shops. Cakes, pastries, and ice cream are excellent, so if you have a sweet tooth, your dentist will be able to buy his dream Lexus thanks to you when you return home. A good beer is Aldaris. If you're brave, try Balzams, a tonic made from orange peel, oak bark, linden blossoms, and I think, asphalt, among 25 or so other ingredients. It's powerful stuff! The old town has a lot of trendy cafés, including Fredis at Audeju 5 and Gertrudes 62, which has a great selection of tasty, spicy salads. I can't remember the name, but somewhere in Old Riga, at one of the public squares, there is a restaurant that offers the best grilled steaks and side dishes that will remind you of your company's summer picnic! Just follow your nose to that tempting smell of burnt meat. You'll get a great steak dinner for a few bucks! Again, visit the Central Market if you want to self-cater.
WHERE TO STAY:
Try to stay in a private home. The Riga Tourist Information Bureau (7221-731) is a good place to find such lodging, located at Skarnu 22. The Country Traveller Association, Kugu 11 (7617-600), is also a good place to find a room at someone's house, as well as booking a Latvian farmstay if you want to see the countryside. There are several cheap hotels near the train station, but be careful! My brother and I suffered from the worst bedbugs ever at one of them!