Macau

Hurry up and see Macau before the handover on December 20, 1999! No doubt it will change a lot as the Chinese will do everything they can to obliterate any Portuguese influence whatsoever. Macau is a great place to go for the day: it's only about an hour by hydrofoil from Hong Kong.

WHAT TO SEE: The Portuguese influence. It's everywhere, from the signs in Portuguese and Chinese to the building façades and town squares. Of course, you must see the ruins of St. Paul's Cathedral, which are magnificent. See them during the day and again at night before you take the hydrofoil back to Hong Kong. Leal Senado, Macau's seat of government, is here, and it overlooks the main town square, a delightful collection of pastel buildings. The old Monte Fort is of interest and offers a great view of Macau. If you're in need of shade, stroll through the Camões and Lou Lim Ioc Gardens. If you're into temples, A-Ma and Kun Iam are enchanting and you'll remember that you're in Asia again. The highest point on the peninsula, Guía Fprtress, is another point from which you can gaze at the city below. Barrier Gate was once a huge attraction because it offered a glimpse of the PRC, but thanks to Richard Nixon it doesn't have the same appeal as it did during the height of the Cold War. There is also the gaudy Hotel Lisboa and its casino, which is why most people come in the first place.

WHAT TO DO: If you have time, explore the islands of Taipa and Coloane. Taipa has become a huge public works project with the airport, Hyatt Hotel, and Macau University, so spend more time on Coloane. Hac Sa Beach, with its black sand, is great place to relax for a while, and a quaint village nearby is worth peeking around.

WHAT NOT TO DO: I've read news reports that crime in Macau is on the rise, so be careful at night. If you plan on gambling, don't try to go in wearing shorts or a tank-top into the casino. Long pants are required: you'll be safe if you dress "business casual."

WHERE AND WHAT TO EAT: The food here is exotic. You can find pigeon, rabbit, lamb, ox tail stew, and a must, African chicken, which is baked with chilis and peppers. Fish is also tasty, including cod and sole. You'll even find food with a South American twist, such as feijoadas, a stew made of pork, sausage, beans, and cabbage. Imported Portuguese wine is everywhere. Some good restaurants include Henri's Galley on Avenida da República 4, Estrela do Mar at Travessa do Paiva 11, and the Solmar, 11 Rua da Praia Grande. At Hac Sa Beach, you can get awesome food at Fernando's. For dessert, go to one of the numerous pastelarias where you can get some good cakes and tea.

WHERE TO STAY: Finding cheap accomodation is tough. The streets between the Lisboa Hotel and the Rua da Praia Grande have some decent places, including the Vila Meng Meng on Rua Dr Pedro Jose Lobo. If you don't mind spending a little more, the East Asia Hotel (922-433) on Rua da Madeira 1-A is in a beautiful building.