Nagasaki

Nagasaki is well worth a visit if you're touring around Kyushu. It's only a couple of hours from Fukuoka by train. This charming city almost reminds me of San Francisco with its greenery and rolling hills. The city has a colorful past: this is where the Dutch and Portuguese first made contact with the Japanese. Of course, most of us know Nagasaki as the second and last city on Earth that suffered from an atomic bombing. This is the reason why most tourists visit, but this city of 450,000 has more to offer than its tragic and depressing past, and is a pleasant place to stay for a couple nights.

WHAT TO SEE: The Urakami district is where the A-bomb landed on Nagasaki on August 9, 1945. The Epicenter, in Hypocenter Park, has a slab of black stone where the bomb exploded, and around the site are various ruins that remain from the blast, as well as countless monuments. Be sure to visit the Kokusai Bunka Kaikan, or "International Cultural Hall," (odd name, isn't it?), which is a very moving, well-done museum that documents the events leading up to the bombing, its heinous effects, and aftermath. This is not a "woe-is-us" account of the bombing, but rather, it aims to portray the horrors of nuclear war.

WHAT TO DO: Be sure to explore the city; there is more to Nagasaki than its horrid past. You can get around by the city's reliable trolley system. Near the JR Nagasaki Station is the 26 Martyrs Memorial, dedicated to the 26 Christians who were crucified in 1597. There are a smattering of temples, including the Fukusai-ji Zen Temple, Shofuku-ji Temple, and the Suwa-jinja Shrine. A wonderful path for walking is "Temple Row," which winds between Shofuku-ji and Kofuku-ji. If you are lucky enough to be in Nagasaki in mid-August, you won't want to miss the O Bon festival, during which families blast boxes of fireworks, yes, boxes, to scare away evil spirits from their deceased relatives. For some good people watching, walk around the Maruyama area: once the site of countless brothels, this is now the entertainment district.

WHAT NOT TO DO: Rumor has it that the local pachinko (glorified pinball gambling) parlors are, SURPRISE! run by the mafia, either by Koreans or the yakuza. It's amazing to walk around and watch people, in a trance, drop coins in these obnoxious machines. Take a peek, but don't let it be obvious that you're gawking, or someone will growl at you and chase you out!

WHERE TO EAT: Well, of course there is convenience store sushi. There is a Yoshinoya's downtown that serves pretty good grub that won't empty your wallet. There are cheap eats to be found around the station. If you have a fat wallet, try shippoku, a multi-course meal that demonstrates Nagasaki's European and Asian influences.

WHERE TO STAY: The Tourist Office at the at the JR Nagasaki station will help you find a hotel room (and will assist you with your train tickets, as well). There are plenty of business hotels around. For a cheap place to stay, try the Nagasaki Youth Hostel, near the station (0958-23-5032). You can take tram #5 to Nanpoen Youth Hostel, south of the city center (0958-23-5526).