The second largest city in Korea has great weather, lots of fresh seafood, and awful traffic. Getting around Pusan is a lot more aggravating than even Seoul, a city 4 times its size. It's a fun place to spend a weekend if you stay in Haeundae, and during the summer, Koreans come in droves to its beaches. Pusan is also a gateway to Japan: you can take a hydrofoil to Fukuoka, which takes about three hours. This city has the proud distinction of being home to the only drive-through McDonald's in Korea.
Pusan is a long, narrow city, situated between coastal mountains and the harbor. Its main thoroughfare, Chung-ang-no, is how you'll get anywhere . . . beneath it is Pusan's lone subway line. Trying to do anything in Pusan is maddening because it takes forever to get anywhere, so plan on seeing only one place of interest a day. Don't worry, however, because there isn't much to see.
Chalgach'i Market begs for a visit: even if you detest seafood, it's fascinating watching all the vendors, ahjoomahs, and wheeling and dealing that occurs. If you like fresh seafood, bring your own condiments and lettuce (Koreans wrap their fish in lettuce and add kochu-jang, or red pepper paste), and an ahjoomah will clean, gut, and slice your wiggling goodies before your eyes. It's a sight not to be missed.
It's a long, trying bus ride from Haeundae or elsewhere in the city, but T'aejongdae is a nice place to take a boat cruise. Get a charge out of the hideous amusement park near the entrance. There are some curious rock formations, and the sea breeze blowing in your face feels wonderful.
If you want to do the Asian thing and get a view of the city (you'll notice in Asia that people in this part of the world that they have a phallic obsession with building tall towers, all of which claim to be the biggest in the world), Pusan Tower gives you a nice view of the city and harbor if the haze isn't in the way.
WHAT TO DO:
Hang out in Haeundae. The beach is nice and relatively clean, much more than other Pusan beaches. It's one of the several nationwide "special tourist zones" where business can stay open 24 hours, so you can do everything you've always wanted to do at 2:00 a.m., from bowling to karaoke.
If you're stuck in the area near Pusan Station, exploring the downtown area, and the main drag that was once called "Texas Street," is fun as well. Get a kick out of all the Russians and Japanese that are shopping like crazy. I was amazed at all the signs that were in the Cyrillic alphabet!
Go to one of the casinos in Haeundae. It's an absolute scream watching the Japanese tourists throw money away at the roulette and blackjack tables. Bet conservatively and enjoy yourself! My friend made 70,000 won just betting on red or white at a roulette table, while Japanese gentlemen seemed to have forgotten what math, statistics, and odds meant, covering the table with chips.
WHAT NOT TO DO:
If you are in a hurry, do not think you'll be able to take a taxi. Either take the subway, or if you want to go from Haeundae to downtown, take the boat that services these two parts of town. Otherwise, you'll go insane. This city wants the 2008 Olympics, but I think the traffic will scare the IOC away. If you are going to Japan, do not forget to change your won into yen here! Your won is worthless in Japan! The area around Pusan Station is pretty creepy at night, so be aware of your surroundings. Russian sailors have a horrible reputation here because of their drunkeness.
WHERE TO EAT:
Remember, this is Korea, so there are almost as many restaurants as there are people. Restaurants and p'o-jang-ma-ch'a, or street vendors, are all over downtown and Haeundae. Naturally, the local specialty is seafood. Japanese food is ubiquitous and tasty as well. If you're in the mood to splurge, the hotels in Haeundae have great buffets. For a drink, go to the Irish bar with that traditional Irish name, O'Kim's, at the Chosun Hotel, overlooking Haeundae.
WHERE TO STAY:
Again, Haeundae is the place to stay. There is a youth hostel, Pusan Tongsong Youth Hostel, in Songjong-dong, east of the city center (51-743-8466), but it may be too isolated for you. Yeo-gwan are all over Haeundae, and near the train station as well. Mind you, if you go during peak season, rates will double!