Shanghai

Shanghai is a fun place to stay for a few days. There really isn't much to do, and if it weren't for the appearance of the locals, you would not believe that you're in China. Modern glass and steel skyscrapers pierce the sky, and this must be the most commerical city anywhere: soft drink ads line Nanking Road, the main drag in downtown Shanghai. Any city in China that has a "Chinatown" (or "The Chinese City")must be out there! This is not a city for backpackers: you're better off spending the money and staying at a decent hotel for a long weekend.

WHAT TO SEE: Sightseeing will take a day. There simply isn't much of interest. The local Museum is worth dropping by, as is (as our hotel's staff described it) "Chinatown." Nanking Road is a great place for people watching, but you'll be disappointed if you want to shop. I went with a few hundred dollars and bought almost nothing: there are hundreds of stores selling the same garbage. The Bund is interesting: this is where the foreign powers built their huge customs houses. You won't see much architecture like this in China, so be sure to wander around here. You must go to the zoo and see the snake show. You have to see it to understand it.

WHAT TO DO: Smile. The locals are really nice and friendly here: much more than in Beijing, where you feel like a cash cow. Open your map if you're lost and you'll attract a friendly and curious crowd. Count how many people are wearing pajamas outside: for some reason that seemed to be the local style when I went there. Of course, in the morning, you have to go to a local park and watch the locals do everything from ballroom dancing to tai-chi. Get around by taxis because they are cheap and plentiful, and we had no problems at all: most drivers were very friendly or at the very least, simply professional.

WHAT NOT TO DO: "Do not forget to carry your thing!" At least that's what stickers in the taxis warn you. On the Bund, obey the rules: "Do not do anything repugnant to the eye," and if you do "see someone doing something repugnant to the eye, contact a local authority."

WHERE TO EAT: Everywhere. You may as well eat cause there isn't much else to do. There are street stalls everywhere, and Chinese banquet halls are yummy and reasonable. The Park Hotel has a good restaurant. Of course, there is fast food everywhere. Half of the world's KFCs must be in Shanghai. You can also dine at the Hard Rock Cafe, Tony Roma's, and any five star hotel. The Hyatt has a great breakfast buffet, and the JC Mandarin Hotel has a fantastic Indian restaurant. We had a hard time finding genuine Chinese cuisine, because the hotel staff, after lengthy deliberations, wanted to send us to Pizza Hut or Hard Rock after we asked about Szechwan and Mongolian hot pots. If you crave McDonald's breakfast, you're in luck: they may deliver by bicycle if you choose!

WHERE TO STAY: Cheap guesthouses are hard to find. Try the Pujiang Hotel, at 15 Huangpu Lu (6324-6388). We stayed at the Park Hotel, where Chairman Mao slept when he was in town. The staff was very nice overall. The doormen practically stampeded over each other to open the doors for us. You have no shortage of hotel rooms here.