Singapore

Singapore is a modern, gleaming, organized, and I thought, boring place. Sure, the streets are clean, but it's almost overkill, and if you go to a neighborhood away from the center, you'll see litter on the ground! It's almost too perfect: trying to get a cab is a pain because you can't hail them from anywhere on the street. After traveling around surrounding SE Asian countries, however, Singapore is a nice place to stock up on supplies and treat yourself to goodies that you've been denied in other countries.

WHAT TO SEE: The Colonial District will take you back to the days when the British ran the show. The Raffles Hotel is worth a quick visit: this is where the Singapore Sling was first mixed in the Long Bar. Several old churches are located around here; of particular interest is the Armenian Church of St. Gregory the Illuminator, the oldest church in Singapore. Chinatown is disappointing, but there are some old temples that haven't been demolished in the name of progress. Little India and Arab Street give you a snapshot of the other cultures that make up Singapore.

WHAT TO DO: Wander along the main drags such as Orchard Road. It is impressive how this malaria-infested island has become one of Asia's "Four Tigers." Shopping here is excellent no matter how fat your wallet is. There are a couple great night markets where you can buy everything from knock-off brand name clothing to expensive cigarette lighters. Check out Bugis Street, east of Bencoolen Street: the transvestites and brothels that are not mentioned in the tourist literature makes for a fascinating walk. I've heard Sentosa Island makes for a decent day trip, but avoid it if you're not into touristy or plastic places.

WHAT NOT TO DO: Don't be stupid and try to break any of those laws such as not flushing after you relieve yourself, littering, chewing gum, etc. Why get into a big hassle and pay a huge fine for nothing? If you're that dumb, you deserve a caning.

WHERE TO EAT: If you want to get good and cheap street food, there are "hawkers' corners" all over the city where you can order anything from turtle soup to tofu stir fries. Little India has a great vegetarian restaurant, Komala Vilas, on 76 Serangoon Road, which is all-you-can-eat and only costs a few bucks. Eat downstairs for snacks or go upstairs for the buffet; just remember to wash your hands before and after your meal cause your hands are your utensils! Chinatown is littered with restaurants that'll suit all budgets; Hainanese chicken and rice is everywhere. The seafood here is excellent; there are some good places in Changi Village, near the airport on the eastern part of the island. The fare is usually "market price," so be sure you ask before you splurge.

WHERE TO STAY: Cheap guesthouses are becoming scarce as these dilapidated buildings are being knocked down and replaced with new structures. Your best bet is to walk along Bencoolen Street and if you don't see anything, the touts will see you. I stayed at the Lee's Traveller's Club, 46-52 Bencoolen (338-1206). It's a dive but the staff is friendly enough and I paid about 8 Singapore dollars a night! Little India also has cheap accomodation.