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Seok-ch'o, Soraksan National Park, and Naksan Beach

This area by far was my favorite weekend getaway while I lived in Korea; I visited several times. You can go for a hike through glorious mountains and then spend the afternoon at the beach during the same day! If I could have gotten a job here, I would have in a second. Many Koreans as well will tell you this is their favorite area. Seok-ch'o is a nice town: like most Korean cities it is a collection of concrete boxes, but the locals are friendly, and the air is fresh! You could spend a week in this town and not get bored. From here you can explore this province, Kangwon-do.

WHAT TO SEE: Soraksan, of course, and its array of hiking trails. You don't have to go near the summit to enjoy some challenging hikes and breathtaking views. You'll get a kick out of Heun-deul Bawi, a huge boulder that has become the regulation photo op for every family in Korea. Even if you hate seafood, the fish market in Seok-cho is a must see. Naksan Beach is a nice place to lay out and have fun. Naksan Temple is one of the finest in Korea: it's a beautiful setting, overlooking the East Sea. If you take the bus, hopefully it'll stop at the 38th Parallel Rest Area, where you have a nice view of the East Sea, and can buy North Korean goods such as so-ju. This is one of the few places where you'll find something from the DPRK.

WHAT TO DO: Walk along the main drag in Seok-cho at night. You'll feel the energy of any other Korean city without the pollution and overwhelming crowds. Visit the market here, also: it feels a lot more "old-country." Admire the dried squid, often hanging on clotheslines to dry. Try to get to this area early Friday or stay through Monday if you can. The park will be empty, and you'll really be able to enjoy the stunning mountains. Flying in Korea is cheap, so it's worth trying to fly into Seok-ch'o, which is only an hour from Seoul by plane. Of course, you will have to make arrangements ahead of time. Koreans are not the best planners, however, so you probably could plan a week ahead of time and still get a ticket. Oh, and yes, this ridiculous photo on the right shows what kind of entertainment is available on Naksan Beach.

WHAT NOT TO DO: Your map may say "Sea of Japan," but don't say this to Koreans! Ignore what 99% of the world thinks and humor the Koreans by calling the vast body of water in front of you the "East Sea." Don't freak out if your bus stops and some police officers come on board. There are several military bases in this area, which means there are military draftees who are constantly trying to escape, so the military police will stop all buses in trying to snag the escapees.

WHERE AND WHAT TO EAT: Again, avoid the tourist villages at Soraksan and Naksan Beach in general, although some places serve good san-ch'ae bibimbap, a mixed rice and wild greens dish. The fish market in Seok-ch'o has great fresh seafood. My favorite is the squid stuffed with rice and vegetables, then sliced up and pan fried! It's excellent! In Sorak Park, you can get yut on a stick, a sticky syrup-like mess that you suck like a lollypop, sold by old women all over the trails.

WHERE TO STAY: Some of the tourist hotels near the Sorak Park entrance have specials, so ask a travel agent. Again, be wary of the yeo-gwans in the tourist villages: be sure you inspect the room. Minbak, rooms in peoples' homes, are plentiful, and of course camping is an option. If you do a trek through Sorak (it's a huge park!), there are camping huts where you can slumber for the night. Seok-ch'o has a lot of inns and yeo-gwans as well, but again, inspect the room. The one time I had bedbugs in Korea was here! There is a Youth Hostel at Naksan that I highly recommend: you can stay in a dorm or your own room, the price is reasonable (10,000 to 25,000 won), and it's a convenient location, right by Naksan Temple. You can also book rooms at condos, but these are often isolated, so if you don't have a car, you're at the mercy of a weak shuttle bus schedule. However, there is always hitchhiking.