This gorgeous and still relatively undeveloped island is a great place to explore if you've got at least a couple weeks. The scenery is incredible, the food cheap and good, the locals friendly and intriguing.
WHAT TO DO:
Padang doesn't offer much, but there are several nice beaches in the area. Change your money in Padang: the rates are worse as you go farther inland. On a Wednesday or Saturday, graze around Bukittingi's open market, where you can buy all kinds of crafts and clothing. Explore Panorama Park and the nearby Sianok Canyon. From here you can take a bus to Lake Maninjau, a beautiful crater lake that offers stunning sunsets. Berastagi is at the foot of Gunung Sibayak, an imposing 2094 meter high volcano that'll take a few hours to climb up, but we descended in only 45 minutes or so. Your guesthouse can recommend day tours and can arrange transportation to your next destination. I suggest a tour where you can learn about the Minangkabau people, where property and land are mananged by and handed down the maternal side of the family.
WHAT NOT TO DO:
Do not run out of small bills, or you will find changing money a hassle. Don't be insensitive and take photos of people without asking (a general rule anywhere), or you'll be screeched at. Don't be an imperious jerk and brush off every local; you've got a chance to meet some genuinely nice people here.
WHERE AND WHAT TO EAT:
Where do I begin? A lot of travelers complained about the food but I was in gastronomic heaven. You'll see a lot of Padang food, which is spicy, spicy, spicy, and darned good. There's all kinds of fish, meat, and vegetables that are in big bowls which you view in the window. Sit down and you'll have a big bowl of rice plopped in front of you, along with a myriad of bowls filled with all sorts of goodies. You'll be charged for the bowls you empty. It may be cold, so be sure it's around meal time. You'll always find good grub near a bus station. If you crave western food in Padang, there is the world famous Australian Fried Chicken. In Bukittingi, go crazy at the market. Cassava chips in a bevy of flavors, all kinds of cakes, and there's a woman there who sells the best muffins, baked in leaves. Oh, the fruit, the fruit! You haven't lived until you've tried a mangosteen: the outside is purple and bitter, but inside are white morsels that will almost bring you to orgasm! Passion fruit abounds, and you've got to try the rambutan: little red or yellow hairy buggers that, when you split them open, reveal a fruit similar to a lychee. I get excited just thinking about the fruit! Bukittingi has some great restaurants. The Mona Lisa, on Jalan Ahmad Yani, has a 25-fruit salad that is a must. In Berastagi, there are several restaurants along Jalan Veteran, including the Eropah and Asia Restaurants, which both have great Chinese food.
WHERE TO STAY:
Cheap guesthouses are everywhere. In Padang, look around the bus station, and try the Hotel Old Tiga Tiga (22633) and the Hang Tuah Hotel (22556). Bukittingi has several places along Jalan Ahmad Yani, though they are quite drab. In Berastagi, I recommend the Wisma Sibayak, which is an old colonial house surrounded by gardens. The staff is very helpful and friendly, will arrange tours and transportation, and will refer you to another place if they're full.
WHAT TO SEE:
I recommend starting out in Padang, working your way up to Bukittinggi, spending several days in Lake Toba, a couple days in Berastagi, and then taking a hydrofoil from Medan to Penang, Malaysia. If you have time, take a side trip to placid Lake Maninjau, near Bukittinggi, and if you love animals, visit the orang-utan rehabilitation center in Bukit Lawang.