WHAT TO SEE: There are fantastic Art Nouveau buildings everywhere. Our favorite was the Reök Palace, on Kölcsey Utca, deliciously painted in green and lilac. The town's symbol, the Votive Church, is quite hideous on the outside, but take a look inside: the frescoes and huge organ are of interest. In this neighborhood, south of the town's center, are other churches such as the Serbian Orthodox Church and St. Demetrius Tower. On Gutenberg Utca 13 is the Great Synagogue, a fitting symbol of Hungarian Jews' perseverance.
WHAT TO DO: Walk around Szécherji Tér, the town square. The Old Town Hall is stunning, and even the post office here is inviting.
WHAT NOT TO DO: I can't think of anything negative: we had a great time here. Don't think you can hop a bus and head into Yugoslavia because you need to get a visa first. If you're from a country that participated in the Kosovo conflict, assume you're persona non grata and don't bother trying to go near the border.
WHERE TO EAT: You must go to Leso Harcsa Halászcsárda, or the "Eager Catfish Fishermen's Inn," and indulge in szegedi halászlé, luscious chunks of fish simmered in the local paprika, served in an iron pot. You will be stuffed from this food orgy. The salad bar here is awesome, too, and its selection of pickled vegetables screams stomach cancer at you. Nearby on Klauzá Tér is the Virág, a tantalizing cake shop and coffee house that is home to the world's best ice cream. The day we arrived in Szeged, my brother and I had a double cone. It was so good we went back for another, and then after dinner, we had a triple cone! Try the Mozart flavor! This town is worth a visit alone just for its ice cream!
WHERE TO STAY:
Your best bet is to go to Szeged Tourist (321-800) and book a private room. There are plenty of student dormitory rooms during the summer; contact Express, Kígyó Utca 3.