Don't miss Telc (pronounced "telch"); this is a wonderful place to roam around for the day. One of many historic towns in the province of Moravia, its town square, Náestí Zachariáse z Hradce, is one of the most picturesque sights in Eastern Europe.
WHAT NOT TO DO:
I can't think of any "don't do's." My only suggestion is that don't think you can take the train to any place from here; the line stops at a dead end near the Austrian border. You're better off taking the bus.
WHERE TO EAT:
Eat early. The locals here seem to go to bed earlier than retired people in Florida. The main hotels, Pod Kastany and Celeria, have good restaurants. There's a good grocery store on the west side of the town square as well. As is the case with the rest of the Czech Republic, the local fish is a winner!
WHERE TO STAY:
Private rooms, again. Go to the Information Office on the west side of the square. They'll give you a list of places that rent rooms, and then just start playing Avon Lady and knock on doors. Ask if breakfast is included. You should be able to stay right on the square for about US$20-25 a night, for two people. After noisy Prague and Cesky Krumlov, we had one of the most restful slumbers of our trip here.
WHAT TO SEE:
Walk around the town square at day and night. The 16th century Renaissance houses here and their exquisite faídes would give Martha Stewart convulsions. The square is anchored by the Water Chateaux on the west and the Marian column on the east.
WHAT TO DO:
Enjoy yourself here. It's quiet at night; I doubt that raves are big in Telc. Walk around the outskirts of town and explore the neighborhoods. The artificial lakes on both sides of town, when they are not fertile mosquito breeding grounds, also make for a pleasant stroll. The park near St. James Church is a nice place for a picnic.