Fukuoka Kyoto and Osaka Nagasaki Tokyo JAPAN

Tokyo

Ah, Tokyo. It's one of those must see cities in the world, not because of what's to see (there isn't much for a megapolis this size), but what's to EXPERIENCE! We've all heard of Ginza, but you have to walk through it to feel it. If you love electronic gadgets, you've found heaven here. You'll see ultramodern buildings and then a small wooden structure that amazingly survived countless fires and wars.

WHAT TO SEE: You won't see much of it, but the Imperial Palace and adjacent East Garden make for a nice stroll. Yasukuni-jinja Shrine is a miss if you don't want to feel you're honoring the Japanese War Dead. Every year the Prime Minister pays a visit here and offends the rest of Asia. You may be treated to black vans that blare out right-wing bluster, so it's a fine place for people watching. Ginza is overrun with showrooms that have the latest electronic gadgets that you wouldn't even think of designing. Love Hotel Hill in Harajuku and its tacky buildings are good for a chuckle. Shinjuku station at rush hour is absolute madness. There are so many districts in this town that are ripe for exploring.

WHAT TO DO: Risk your sanity and take the subway at rush hour. It is simply inhumane how many people can get crammed into a train. You have to experience it to understand. The nightlife is outstanding if you have a third world country sized budget to finance it. Wander around the department stores so you can feel even more broke! If you're trying to meet people, stop by one of the "conversation lounges," such as Mickey House (3209-9686). Entry is free if you're a foreigner and you'll meet locals and other gaijin.

WHAT NOT TO DO: Tokyo, and Japan in general, is a very safe place, even at night. Just be aware of your surroundings. It's so noisy there that it's easy to plug yourself into a walkman and lose your guard.

WHERE TO EAT: Oh, everywhere. There are so many restaurants, it's a wonder what city has more: Seoul or Tokyo. Cheap eats can be found in the basements of department stores, in and around train stations, and of course, the convenience stores have all kinds of 100 yen goodies.

WHERE TO STAY: With a friend. This city will ravage your wallet faster than a shinkansen train will cause your ears to pop. You can try the Tokyo International Youth Hostel for starters (3235-1107): book ahead. You can also try the Yoyogi Youth Hostel at 3467-9163. For more information, contact the Japan Youth Hostel Association at 3269-5831.