Warsaw

The capital of Poland is a story of an amazing resurrection. Leveled during World War II, civic leaders and architects were able to rebuild Warsaw, using blueprints that somehow survived in state archives. The center of Warsaw looks almost exactly the way it was before war destroyed it.

WHAT TO SEE: Old Town is wonderful. Walk around here and you'll wonder where the Eastern Europe of drab grey apartments and factories came from. This is another world. The Royal Castle is spendid, and the 14th century St. John's Cathedral is stunning. Walk a few kilometers from Royal Castle to Lazienki Palace, where you can see more gorgeous buildings. St. Anne's Church probably the prettiest in the city. Music lovers will want to drop by the Chopin Museum, which houses some of his manuscripts as well as his last piano.

WHAT TO DO: Warsaw hosts several music festivals during the summer, so hopefully you'll be in town when one is underway. Walk down Al Jerozolimskie and check out the Palace of Culture, a monstrosity that was a "gift" from the Soviets, an interesting comparison to Old Town. You'll then feel sad that this country was once a puppet of the USSR!

WHAT NOT TO DO: Do not stay at the Hotel Europeiski. A grand but dated building, it has the atmosphere of a brothel! Night workers of all shapes and ages will give you the once over as you walk in and out of your hotel at night. Be careful with taxi drivers: they are the Polish equivalent of sharks!

WHERE TO EAT: One of the best Chinese restaurants at which I've stuffed myself is Restauracja Bliss at Krzywopoboczna 1; try something with deer, rabbit, or frog legs. There are plenty of cafes and restaurants at the town square, Rynek Starego Miasta. For excellent ice cream, indulge yourself at Lody, on ul Nowomiejska 9, a few blocks north of the square.

WHERE TO STAY: For private rooms, try Biuro Kwater Prywatnych Syrena Univel on ul Krucza 17 (628-56-98). The Dom Literatury (635-3920) on ul Krakowskie Przedmiescie 87, is right in the center and has gotten good reviews.