WHAT TO SEE:
There isn't much to see in Zilina. If you're interested in local history, there's the Regional Museum. The central square, dominated by a lovely church, is lined with a covered walkway. This is a great town to stay in if you love to play cards and sip on strong coffee and beer, but if you thrive off nightlife, you'll be disappointed.
WHAT TO DO:
Zilina is a nice town, but the reason to come is the hiking. Take a bus from Zilina to Chata Vrátna, which leaves once an hour. Once you arrive, take a chair lift from Chata Vrátna and begin your choice of hikes! The scenery is wonderful and there are plenty of easy trails.
WHAT NOT TO DO: Do not hike without a good map! We got confused and lost, and the fact that we got distracted by picking and chowing down raspberries, which grow all over the place, didn't help. It then started to rain and I thought for sure we were screwed, but luckily a nice man coasting down the mountain on an ancient motorcycle gave us a lift.
WHERE TO EAT: You'll find restaurants here and there, but don't plan on eating late as they close early. Záhradná Restaurácia, on Hurbana 24, has decent hearty food. Be sure you have a good phrase book with food terms; my brother for sure thought he ordered chicken but he got liver instead; the words are similar. Near the central square is an open market where you can find good fresh fruit. For self catering, try the K-mart (the store's name has since changed and it's European-owned now) outside the central square, where you can find good cheeses, breads, and other goodies.
WHERE TO STAY:
Accomodation is limited, and trying to find a place in the national park is a stretch during the summer months. The Metropol Hotel (62 39 00), across the street from the train station, is convenient. We stayed at the Hotel Majovey (62 41 52), Jána Milica 3, which was very comfortable and had a good restaurant.